Spend a Weekend

Ease into Bruges by checking into any one of the city's chic B&Bs or small hotels on Friday night. Then start your tour with a low-key dinner in the area of the fish market, trying either Den Gouden Karpel (Huidevettersplein 3-4) or De Visscherie (Vismarkt 8); if fish is not your thing, opt for Den Dyver (Dijver 5), a family-run eatery serving dishes cooked in beer. Later, if you have the energy, head for the Eiermarkt, just north of the Markt, where there are several bars popular with young people.

On Saturday morning, take to the waters and jump on a boat for a guided tour of the city's canals. (Alternatively, if it's winter and a weekday when the boats don't go, take a horse-drawn carriage). Having got your bearings, start your own walking tour of Bruges at the Markt, where first you might like to walk up to the top of the Belfry for panoramic views of the city.

From the Markt, wend your way south to the Beguinage, possibly passing along Steenstraat, one of the city's main shopping streets, before crossing Simon Stevin Plein (popping into Chocolate Line for some delicious fizzy cola chocolate) and heading along Mariastraat, which becomes Katelijnestraat, where it would be rude not to stop at Tearoom de Proeverie (Katelijnestraat 6) for the best hot chocolate (melted chocolate and hot milk). While you're here, pop over to sister stop Chocolaterie Sukerbuyc to stock up on Bruges swans (pralines made with crumbled biscuit and dried spices), which are the city chocolate (the locals voted this particular recipe the winner of a competition in 2005 to find a unique Bruges chocolate).

Walking down Wijngaardstraat, look to the left along Noordstraat to see some of the oldest alms houses in Bruges, complete with tiny chapel, dating to 1713. Wander round the Beguinage and Minnewater (Lake of Love), complete with elegant swans, before retiring to Maximiliaan van Oostenrijk for a traditional tummy-warming beef stew that will set you up nicely for the afternoon's sightseeing.

After lunch, stop by the 16th century Brewery De Halve Maan on the pretty square of Walplein; guided tours are on offer. Then wander off the square, down the small alley of Stoofstraat to t'Verwennerietje, which is one of the few places where you can still see authentic Belgian lace being made. Head for Gruuthusestraat and Dijver, on which you will find two of Bruges' main museums, and potter in and out of the art galleries and antiques stores. On summer weekends, by the side of the canal, there is also a brocante (flea market) on Dijver.

From Dijver, pass the Vismarkt en route to Burg square, where 700 years of architecture are on display. If you have time, do pop into the Town Hall; the Gothic Hall on the first floor dates to 1376, though the ceiling is original 15th century. Paintings from the 1900s, which have recently been restored, depict milestones in Bruges' history.

For dinner, splash out and visit Restaurant Patrick Devos, a well-known local chef, who cooks up a storm in a beautiful historic building that has both Art Nouveau and Art Deco rooms.

On Sunday morning, chill out and take a leisurely stroll through the quarter of St Anne, a quiet, predominantly residential area, which is too often overlooked by tourists. Pretty streets, almshouses, beautiful churches and fully-functioning 18th century windmills are just some of the delights waiting to be discovered.

In the afternoon, take time to explore Bruges' main museums, such as the Groeningemuseum for its artworks, particularly those of the Flemish Primitives, and the Gruuthuse Museum, with its beautifully restored tapestries, furniture, ceramics, musical instruments and much more.